George Eliot, East Cemetery
This is absolutely not food related at all, but I just had to share some pics with you of one of the best things I did on my London trip – go to Highgate Cemetery. I’ve always wanted to go there, and on previous trips I just wasn’t able to fit it in (it’s not exactly the easiest place to find). I’ve dreamt about the cemetery every night since being there (6 days now), so I decided writing about it might get it out of my system!
I made a concerted effort to get there this time, on my very last day. I had to check out of my hotel, but had the whole day to fill in before going to the airport in the evening. The hotel was happy to store my luggage, so with trusty maps/website instructions, and having pre-booked a West cemetery tour beforehand (the only way you can go in to that side), I set off.
To get here, you have to get the tube to Archway station, not Highgate – I think they suggest this because of the steep hills, but even so there were steep hills anyway! I am pretty good at walking, as I do it seriously for exercise at home anyway and also walk to shops/train stations etc all the time, so the walk was not a problem for me – but I can see it would be an issue for some. I had to walk up a hill for about 10 minutes, then go through Waterlow Park, and here I got a bit lost. The instructions from the cemetery’s website were confusing, so I entered the park at the correct gate, but left the other side through the wrong gate and ended up at the top end of Swain’s Lane instead of the bottom. I then had to walk down a hill for 10 minutes, and finally arrived.
It was lunchtime by now and I had anticipated buying a sandwich when I got there – nope, no chance – there is nothing there, not even a vending machine, and the cafe in the park had revolting high-fat greasy stuff, so I just went without. I only had 40 minutes before my booked West side tour, so I whipped around the East side really quickly.
Side paths everywhere, East Cemetery
The history of this place is quite unusual. You can read the full story here, but basically, in 1832 a Bill was passed in London allowing the creation of private cemeteries in the greater London area, to alleviate overcrowding in the inner city’s parish cemeteries. In the 10 years following this bill, 7 private cemeteries were created, known as the Magnificent Seven. Highgate was one of these, opening in 1839 with an initial 17 acres (15 acres for Church of England burials, and 2 acres for dissenters!). A further 20 acres was purchased and opened as the East cemetery, 20 years later, with the original (older) part becoming the West cemetery.
The topography/views around Highgate, and the snobbish mentality of wanting to be interred in a place seen as exclusive, meant that wealthy Victorians rushed to be buried here, hence some pretty awesome graves and tombs – the architecture of some of it is amazing, a bit spooky sometimes and completely fascinating. The most spectacular area is the Egyptian Avenue and Circle of Lebanon, built up around a 300 year old Lebanese Cedar tree. Even in decay, this archway/tunnel and circle of massive tombs is so impressive, and must have been unbelievably stunning in its’ heyday.
Entrance to Egyptian Ave, West Cemetery
Egyptian Ave, West Cemetery
There are many famous people buried here, with the most visited grave being that of Karl Marx, in the East cemetery. The guides also tell many quirky stories about people lesser known to us, but who were famous at the time or who just have fascinating backgrounds.
RIP Malcolm, East Cemetery
By the 1930s the cemetery was in decline – I won’t go into it all but it was eventually “sold” to the local council for a token amount and taken over by volunteers in 1975. It is heritage listed (grade 1) and a balance is tried to be maintained between upkeep/restoration of the graves (a constant battle – I saw headstones even from within the last 10 years, that were seriously wonky and tilting – the ground is very soft and wet underneath), safety for visitors, respect for the original purpose (and inhabitants!), access for families of those buried, and keeping it’s unique fascination/gothic decay/attraction to tourists. I think they do a wonderful job at this balancing act, with very little income to help.
West Cemetery
Something I thought funny, was that in the 1970s when money was really needed, in desperation one section of land in the West was sold off as real estate. Hence over near the dissenters’ section there are a couple of huge, modern, IMO very ugly, houses that literally have their homes on the edge of the cemetery – with big glass windows and balconies hanging over the graves! They really look awful and spoil the look of the edge of the cemetery, but what a great place to live, looking out over all those graves and green ivy every day. Maybe I am a bit strange (well, yes I know I am) but I would love it….
Circle of Lebanon, West Cemetery
You can still be buried here (although there isn’t much room left – there are 170,000 interments in 53,000 graves), and the guide told me it costs from about £1,000 (ashes in an urn, in a wall, for a 50 year period) to £37,000 (burial in a prime front row spot!). I was really surprised at these prices – I thought it would be a lot more, especially as the cemetery is seriously in need of funds to maintain it. Because it is not a government concern, the cemetery is run by volunteers and the only income is from donations/entry fees/guided tours (currently £4 for East side, or £12 for East side/West tour). The main reason, I was told, for not allowing general access to the West cemetery unaccompanied, is for safety reasons – which I do understand as there is a LOT of subsidence in/around the graves, and it is often wet, slippery and muddy as well. At the same time, it was a bit frustrating not to be able to wander at will and do some serious exploration (get lost in a graveyard, yay!!). The tours (which are limited to 12 people and take an hour) don’t cover everywhere – not enough time – so each guide decides where he/she will go and they mix it up – I need to go back and do another tour to see different things!
No flowers, Douglas likes pens!
If any of you have read Tracy Chevalier’s Falling Angels novel, it is set in and around Highgate Cemetery, and mentions many of the graves/tombs/features there.
After my West side tour, I went back into the East for some more wandering around. I finally had lunch at 3pm!
Sorry for the length of this post, but as you can tell I love this place and could waffle on about it for hours. I can’t wait to go back again. And you have no idea how hard it was to choose which photos to include here!
Happy Ghostly Fooding!
Circle of Lebanon, West Cemetery